The Higher Buxton Ale Trail

Archive: This pub crawl was published in 2020 and describes the writers’ visit. London Road Inn and the Eagle have since closed; other venues have changed names. South 16 has been reported closed. Check current details before planning a route.

We decided to explore Higher Buxton, around the town’s Market Place. We pinpointed 12 pubs and bars and opted to sample half a pint in each, mainly so we could remember enough to write about it! The venues are clustered around the town centre.

The other half of Buxton’s town centre around the Opera House is called Lower Buxton or “the posh end” and this has more opportunities to drink ale; most notably The Tap House, which serves beer from the town’s own brewery. The Lower Buxton Ale Trail shall be documented at a later date, along with a potential Peripheries of Buxton Ale Trail, which will require us to put in a few miles, preferably when the sun is shining.

Buxton having a posh end insinuates that the other end is rough and it is perhaps not unfair to say that it is a tad crinkly around the edges. However, you could argue that Higher Buxton facilitates a more authentic and unpredictable northern night out. Our trail was attempted on a Saturday evening and not only did we discover many agreeable tipples, but lots of colourful characters, no-nonsense bar staff and a selection of foot-stomping music. No less than five of of the twelve boozers we visited were hosting live acts and as a general experience, Higher Buxton was loud, lively and enjoyable, despite the January weather. Buxton folk are a hardy breed and enjoy themselves even in an adverse climate and you have to admire that.

On with the trail!

1. London Road Inn, 62-64 High Street

Update: CAMRA records London Road Inn as closed since 2022.

The London Road had not long reopened but had quickly established a reputation for music. This being our first port of call, it was early and the band were still setting up. There were two handpulls and we drank Wainwrights, brewed by Marstons. They were playing Joy Division; not your average pub soundtrack. Despite the agreeable brew, tunes and rustic atmos, we were on a mission and had to press on.

2. The Cheshire Cheese, 37-39 High Street

Just up the road was Titanic Brewery’s The Cheshire Cheese, a cosy and comfortable pub that could keep an ale lover happy all by itself. Five handpulls from the brewery lined up alongside five guest beers. Our eclectic round included Griffin Ale, Tiger Ale and Titanic’s own Iceberg. Tiger is smooth and highly drinkable. Blackboard menus recommend mixing the beer with platters of nosh (which I’ve heard is good). We resisted the temptation and swaggered heroically back out into the cold.

3. The Swan, 40 High Street

Over the road is the legend that is The Swan which delivers an ultimate late night destination for some, hence the local phrase “The Swan till One”. Pete, the landlord at the time, was a moustachioed icon in his own right. We ordered Doombar, Tetleys and Silk of Amnesia brewed by Storm Brewing Co. Not a bad mix at all. We thought The Swan’s Tartan Room could have been a setting for one of David Lynch’s films.

4. The Old Sun Inn, 33 High Street

Back over the road and into The Sun, where food seemed to be more of a priority. There were six handpulls to contend with, including Martson’s Pedigree and Empire. I opted for the more potent brew of Owd Rodger. The Sun had lots of little booths and compartments, giving it an intimate vibe, which may or may not be your thing, depending on how peaceful you like your nights out. The staff were trying politely to eject an overly-merry patron when we arrived. We wondered if he was on the Rodger.

5. The Queen’s Head Hotel, High Street

The Queens towers regally in the centre of the high street. This big boozer is the eventual destination for many of the town’s Saturday night revellers, probably because there’s a band on and it’s spacious enough to accommodate a mob. The choice of sauce is intriguing; the sour delights of Jaipur rubbing shoulders with Monk’s Gold and Old Speckled Hen. Aside from the beer, the carpet is one of the seven wonders of Buxton and should be beheld. There was a party not long ago to mark the departure of the old carpet. So saturated with spilt pints was the previous incarnation that if you stood still for too long, you became glued to the spot.

6. The Ale Stop, 3 Chapel Street

The Ale Stop was featured in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide. On our visit it offered changing beers and ciders, vinyl music and occasional live acts. Check CAMRA’s listing for current opening times and facilities.

7. Gilbert’s, 5–5a High Street

Update: CAMRA lists this address as Bar Wan, with Gilbert’s, Pickled Frog and High Stakes as previous names.

The Bohemian ambiance was maintained at nearby Gilbert’s where young Goths draped themselves over Chesterfield sofas within spitting distance of a raucous rock band. We ploughed through the gig into a cordon of local hard nuts who looked like they were preventing the bar from taking off with their tattooed forearms. We just about managed to communicate with the bar staff utilising an improvised system of semaphore and ordered Stancill Resolution. The ruffians eyed our half pints with suspicion. It was so gloriously bonkers in here, we wanted to stay longer, but we had a job to do.

8. South 16, 9 Market Street

Update: South 16 was reported closed in 2021. The premises later housed Khomkhai Thai Cuisine; CAMRA records the restaurant as closed long term from December 2025. Check the address’s current status before visiting.

Set back from the market place slightly was South 16. It was less manic in here and we took a comfy seat to complete the four pint mark. South 16 had two nice guest beers from Shipyard and Flowers so well worth a stop. They were playing Sonic Youth, which is a massive bonus in my books, regardless of the ale. The bar staff had beards and tattoos and didn’t wear socks so if you’re visiting from London, you’ll feel right at home.

9. The New Inn, 2-3 Market Place

If you expect a northern pub to look like the one from An American Werewolf in London rather than something from Shoreditch, you’ll be less disappointed here. There was no pentagram on the wall, but a grinning green man. They had four handpulls, two of which are dedicated to Trooper and Robinson’s Double Hop. The northernism was accentuated by a meat raffle and a tearful woman on the karaoke.

10. Eagle Hotel, 10 Eagle Parade

Update: CAMRA records the Eagle as closed since 2022.

Another live band was in full swing at the Eagle, playing to a busy dance floor. This pub used to have a bad rep, due partly to the fact someone got shot dead outside in the 1970s, but it’s actually really friendly and relaxed. The four half pints of Hydes we consumed also constituted the cheapest round of the night. Well done, Eagle; you bore our wallets aloft on your mighty wings.

11. Kings Head, Market Place

The headless monarch on the other side of the market place rubs shoulders with the town hall, as if huddling together to stave off the biting wind. We dived inside to find the only choice was Marstons which is never a bad thing but it felt a bit dreary compared to the variety of neckwash we had enjoyed so far. It was a lively pub, nonetheless, teeming with every walk of life.

12. 53 Degrees North, 8a Hall Bank

Update: CAMRA lists the former 53 Degrees North as Lubens.

By now, we had developed what is known locally as “wobbly boots” and quibbled whether the last port of call was in Higher or Lower Buxton, it being partway down the hill. We decided to have a drink anyway, past caring. The last few boozers had loud music so it was a bit of a shock to walk into one that was almost silent. I can’t remember what we drank. I did write it down but my handwriting had devolved into indecipherable scribble; the inevitable pitfall of writing about an ale trail first-hand. Probably just as well it had come to an end (unofficially, it ended in the kebab shop).

Written by the Buxton Ale Trailers.